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It tends to be more tolerant of soil conditions than a Cabernet
vine is, and can be harvested earlier, making it more reliable
than most other varieties. Harvesting different variety a week
or so later could mean damage by the weather. Although this has
to be countered by the fact that the berry of merlot is relatively
thin-skinned and somewhat prone to rot. Merlot is moderately vigorous in vine growth, but must sometimes be reined in from setting too large of a crop by judicious pruning, often followed weeks later by cluster thinning. Merlot on fertile soil may produce eight tons per acre, but best fruit quality is gained if the crop is kept at six tons per acre or less. Merlot's tendencies towards both shatter and over-cropping are paradoxical. Merlot tends to be less distinctive and slightly more herbaceous overall in both aroma and taste. Ripeness seems critical; both under ripe and overripe grapes lean away from fruit and towards herbaceousness. Merlot has slightly lower natural acidity than Cabernet and generally less astringency, therefore usually a more lush mouth-feel. Typical traits of Merlot include: Typical Merlot Smell and/or Favour Descriptors
Cabernet Sauvignon is the most dependable candidate for ageing, more often improving into a truly great wine than any other single varietal. With age, it's distinctive black currant aroma can develop bouquet nuances of cedar, violets, leather, or cigar box and its typically tannic edge may soften and smooth considerably. It is the most widely planted and significant among the five dominant varieties in the Medoc district of France's Bordeaux region, as well as the most successful red wine produced in California. Long thought to be an ancient variety, recent genetic studies at U.C. Davis have determined that Cabernet Sauvignon is actually the hybrid offspring of Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc. Cabernet sauvignon berries are small, spherical with black, thick and very tough skin. This toughness makes the grapes fairly resistant to disease and spoilage and able to withstand some autumn rains with little damage. It is a mid to late season ripen. These growth characteristics, along with its flavour appeal have made Cabernet Sauvignon one of the most popular red wine varieties world-wide. The best growing sites for producing quality wi nes from Cabernet Sauvignon are in moderately warm, semiarid regions providing a long growing season, on well-drained, not-too-fertile soils. Vineyards in Sonoma County's Alexander Valley, much of the Napa Valley, and around the Paso Robles area of the Central Coast have consistently produced the highest-rated California examples. Typically, Cabernet Sauvignon wines smell like black currants with a degree of bell pepper or weediness, varying in intensity with climatic conditions, viticulture practices, and vinification techniques. Climates and vintages that are either too cool or too warm, rich soils, too little sun exposure, premature harvesting, and extended maceration are factors that may lead to more vegetative, less fruity character in the resulting wine. In the mouth, Cabernet can have liveliness and even a degree of richness, yet usually finishes with firm astringency. Some of the aroma and flavour descriptors most typically found in Cabernet Sauvignon are: Typical Cabernet Sauvignon Smell and/or Flavour Descriptors
Cabernet franc vines bear thinner-skinned, earlier-ripening grapes with lower overall acidity, when compared to cabernet sauvignon. Yields are similar, although cabernet franc normally buds and ripens somewhat earlier. Consequently vineyards in climates where rain is a harvest-time threat often plant this grape, in place of or in addition to cabernet sauvignon. Cabernet franc vines survive cold winters better than cabernet sauvignon, but are more susceptible to being damaged by Spring frosts. France has by far the most cabernet franc plantings of any wine producing nation with over 35,000 acres. There are significant plantings of cabernet franc in St. Emilion, the Loire Valley (where it is known as Breton), and south west France (aka Bouchy). There are cabernet franc vineyards in Romania, Hungary, the Balkans, and the Friuli region of north eastern Italy (aka cabernet frank). New plantings in the 1990s in Australia, New Zealand, and Argentina show promise. In the United States, cabernet franc is planted in Long Island, New York, and in Washington state. California has about 2,000 acres, mostly planted since 1980, over half in Napa and Sonoma. Depending a great deal on vineyard practices, the flavour profile of Cabernet Franc may be both fruitier and sometimes more herbal or vegetative than Cabernet Sauvignon, although lighter in both co lour and tannins. Over-cropping and underexposure each tend to accentuate the vegetative flavour elements. Typically somewhat spicy in aroma and often reminiscent of plums and especially violets, Cabernet Franc is more often used as a secondary or tertiary element in blended red wines, such as Bordeaux or Meritage, instead of as a stand-alone varietal bottling. Typical Cabernet Franc Smell and/or Flavour Descriptors Malbec’s rich, inky colour and fat, juicy personality make
it brilliant with mellow, long-simmered dishes like braised red
meats and stews. The deep legendary “black” wine of
Cahors, traditionally matched to such rib-sticking dishes as the
hearty cassoulet, is a splendid example of Malbec. It is known in much of France as Côt, and, in Cahors, also as Auxerrois. There are in fact hundreds of local synonyms, since Malbec at one time was widely planted all over the country. Sensitivity to frost and proclivity to shatter or colour is the primary reason Malbec has become a decreasing factor in most of France. Although plant ings in the Medoc have decreased by over two-thirds since the mid-twentieth century, Malbec is now the dominant red varietal in the Cahors area. The Appellation Controlée regulations for Cahors require a minimum content of 70%. Malbec truly comes into its own in Argentina, where it is the major red varietal planted. Much of the Malbec vines there were transplanted from Europe prior to the outbreak of phylloxera and most is therefore ungrafted, on its own roots. Sadly, over the years, the bug has infested Argentina, too, and vineyards are being replanted on resistant rootstock. Argentines often spell it "Malbec" and make wines from it that similar in flavour to those made in Europe, but with softer, lusher structure, more like New World Merlot. Another difference: where French examples are usually considered short-lived, Argentine Malbec seem to age fairly well. Malbec is also planted in Chile, and there's relatively little and recent acreage in California and Australia. It is usually blended with other red varietal's in these countries. Successful Argentine Malbec growers claim that, in order to develop full maturity and distinction, Malbec needs "hang time" even after sugar levels indicate ripeness. Otherwise, immature Malbec can be very "green" tasting, without its characteristic notes of plum and anise.
A Pinot Noir's colour can be any of a range of colours - from cherry red to purple-red and even brown as the wine ages. Typical flavours include earth, leather, vanilla (from the oak), and jam ... the fruity flavours of the jam often taste like raspberry, strawberry, and plum. Pinot Noir is one of the oldest grape varieties to be cultivated for the purpose of making wine. Ancient Romans knew this grape as Helvenacia Minor and vinified it as early as the first century AD. Recognised world-wide as a great wine grape, Pinot noir has many alias and is grown in Algeria, Argentina, Australia, Austria (called Blauburgunder or Spätburgunder), Brazil, Canada, Czechoslovakia, England, France, Germany (Spätburgunder), Greece, Hungary, Italy ( Pinot Nero), Mexico, New Zealand, Switzerland (Clevner, labeled"Dole" when blended with Gamay Noir), the United States, and Yugoslavia (Burgundac). The reputation that gets Pinot noir so much attention, however, is owed to the wines of Burgundy (Bourgogne), France. For most of wine history, this two-mile-wide, thirty-mile-long stretch of hills, called the Côte d'Or ("Slope of Gold"), is the only region to achieve consistent success from the Pinot noir vine. The quality of Bourgogne is due to a number of factors. Its vineyards slope gently down toward the East, providing the vines with long sun exposure yet avoiding afternoon heat. The soil there is very calcareous (chalky; containing calcium carbonate), offering good drainage. Well-drained soils have a higher average temperature, which assists ripening. Pinot noir seems to reflect more pronounced Gout de Terroir, or flavour of the soil, than other black grape types, making vineyard site selection a critical factor. Difficulties plague Pinot noir at every step, from propagation to even its bootle-ageing characteristics. Genetically unstable, the parent vine may produce offspring that bear fruit that is nothing like the parent's in the size and shape of the berry or cluster and will frequently even have different aromas, flavours, and levels of productivity. There are 46 recognised clones (genetic mutations) of Pinot Noir in Dijon, France. Ampelographers estimate there are as many as 200 to possibly 11,000 clones of Pinot noir world-wide. By comparison, cabernet sauvignon has only twelve identifiable clones. Nearly every affliction known to affect vines is common among Pinot noir vineyards. Although quite tolerant of cold climates, it is particularly susceptible to Spring frosts, because it is one of the earliest-leafing varieties. The sharpshooter leafhopper finds Pinot noir a perfect host. This bug carries Pierce's Disease, which can destroy an entire vineyard in as little as three years. Leaf-roll virus is prevalent in almost all Pinot noir plantings over ten years old. The Pinot vines are not very vigorous and often lack adequate leaf cover to protect the fruit from birds, which do much damage. Even if the grapes su rvive the birds, if not picked promptly at maturity, the thin-skinned and tender berries shrivel and dry out rapidly (notice this shriveling in the photo), resulting in a raisin aroma and neutral flavour. Pinot Noir is also one of the more difficult wines to ferment. Partly due to the presence of 18 amino acids, which are naturally balanced in this variety, Pinot Noir ferments violently, often "boiling" up and out of its container, speeding the process out of control. Colour retention is a major problem for the thin-skinned berries. Pinot is very prone to acetification and often loses the sometimes promising aromas and flavours it seems to display through fermentation and ageing, as soon as it is bottled. The popular image persists that California Pinot Noir is a light, fruity wine of no consequence, but California vintners over the past twenty years have been improving viticultural methods, site selection, and vinification techniques to increase their record of success. The nominees for Best Supporting Appellation in California Pinot Noir are much the same as for Chardonnay: Santa Maria V alley (Santa Barbara County); Russian River Valley (Sonoma County); Carneros (in both Sonoma and Napa Counties); Anderson Valley (Mendocino County); as well as the Pinnacles (Monterey County) and, recently, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County). Great Pinot Noir creates a lasting impression on the palate and
in the memory. Its aroma can be intense with a ripe-grape, vaguely
peppermint or black cherry aroma. Ripe tomato, mushroom, and barnyard
are also common descriptors for identifying Pinot Noir. It is
full-bodied and rich but not heavy, high in alcohol, yet neither
acidic nor tannic, with substantial flavour despite its delicacy.
The most appealing quality of Pinot Noir may be its soft, velvety
texture. When right, it is like liquid silk, gently caressing
the palate. (See our Tasting Notes) Pinot does not have the longevity
in the bottle of the darker red wines and tends to reach its peak
at five to eight years past the vintage.
Historically, Carmenère has been difficult to grow in cold, humid climates, and, although this is one of the most ancient varieties in Bordeaux, plantings have not been maintained even in this region, let alone any other in France, or for that matter, anywhere in Europe! Carmenère is prized in the Medoc for both its depth of colour and, in ripe years, it can add complexity and interest to blends. Carmenère requires more heat to ripen than the other varietal's planted in Bordeaux. This and its erratic tendency to develop a condition called coulure, poor fruit set after flowering, may have caused Carmenère t o fall out of favour. Thought to be the antecedent of other better-known varietal's, some think Carmenère is possibly a long-established clone of Cabernet Sauvignon. One Bordeaux synonym for Carmenère is Grand Vidure and simply Vidure is also used for Cabernet Sauvignon. Some suggest that Carmenère may be Biturica, the vine of not only ancient Roman praise, but also the word then used to call the city of Bordeaux.
Charles Wetmore, founder of Cresta Blanca winery, brought the first cuttings of Sauvignon Blanc to California in the 1880s. Some came from the vineyards of the legendary Sauternes Chateau Y'Quem, world's most expensive and famous dessert wine. These plantings did well in the Livermore Valley and Sauvignon Blanc became one of the early favourite dry whites from California. Eventually, Sauvignon Blanc became a varietal with an alias in California, where it is now often known and labeled as "Fumé Blanc". For many years, California wineries made wine from Sauvignon Blanc grapes, but there was almost no consistency of style: some made bone-dry wines after the fashion of the French in the Graves and Loire regions, while others chose to make very sweet, dessert-style wines after the Sauternes and Barsacs. Robert Mondavi deserves credit for this renaming of this varietal to distinguish the style it is made in. Mondavi made a sweet style from the 1966 and '67 vintages, labeling their wine "Sauvignon Blanc", but changed to a dry version in 1968. To denote the change to their customers, they came up with the "Fumé Blanc" name after Pouilly-Fumé, one of the most popular dry-style Loire Valley versions. Rather than copyrighting or trade marking the name, Mondavi offered to allow anyone to use the Fumé Blanc name to market a dry-style Sauvignon Blanc. Note that the term is only used on American wines. "Fumé" literally translates to "smoke," but this has nothing to do with a "smoky" favour in the wine, although that is a popular notion. It instead refers to the morning fog that covers the Loire Valley and is "as thick as smoke." Any smoke-like smells or flavours in Sauvignon Blanc probably arise from ageing in toasted oak barrels and are definitely not due to any inherent character of this grape variety. The varietal identity of Sauvignon Blanc is typically closer to grass, bell-pepper, or grapefruit in nature. It can often even pick up an aggressive "cat box" odour when lacking sun exposure or harvested under ripe. Clonal selection and viticultural practices that expose the grapes to more sunlight yield wine that is more melon-like in aroma. Development of hardier clones has helped production levels, which were irregular in humid climates, due to this variety's propensity to develop "powdery mildew" and "black rot". Sauvignon Blanc vines tend to be quite vigorous growers, so it is especially important to manage the canopy by careful pruning and even by thinning leaves and shoots to direct the plant's energy towards ripening the fruit. Unrestrained growth and over-cropping result in neutral-tasting wines of little interest. Barrel-fermentation, although not commonly used for this variety when compared to Chardonnay, can also modify the Sauvignon Blanc aroma and add complexities. Blending Sauvignon Blanc with Semillon is a common practice that can add richness and an extra element of figs to the aroma, softening the sometimes abrasive Sauvignon Blanc character. This blending is widespread in the Graves district of France's Bordeaux region (normally 75-85% Sauvignon Blanc to 15-25% Semillon). In the communes of Sauternes and Barsac, a blend of 60-70% Semillon with 30-40% Sauvignon Blanc is more typical. When allowed to hang, past the normal ripeness point for dry table wine, the grape flavours may be concentrated by the influence of a naturally-occurring mould known as "Noble Rot" (Botrytis cinerea), to make the area's famous dessert wines. Loire Valley wines made from Sauvignon Blanc, such as Pouilly Fumé and Sancerre, are most often 100% Sauvignon Blanc, unblended and usually made without the use of oak. In light of these Fr ench traditional methods, the California practices then become somewhat ironic. California producers tend to use the Loire-derived Fumé Blanc name and bottle shape for their blended and oak-aged wines (more like the Bordelais). Meanwhile, the California Sauvignon Blanc's that are 100% varietal and most likely without oak in fermentation or ageing (distinctly Loire-like practices), are most often bottled in Bordeaux-style bottles! There are wineries who make their Sauvignon Blanc in a dry-style but do not use the "Fumé" name. On the other hand, are there are no regulations limiting the use of "Fumé" to dry wines. This unfortunate inconsistency can be confusing for the consuming public. The American wine industry would probably be best off to adapt some specific guidelines. Besides France and California, Sauvignon Blanc also is produced successfully by New Zealand and South Africa (excellent in both), Chile, Argentina, and, to lesser degrees of production, Washington State, Australia, and Italy, where it is expanding. With fairly good tonnage per acre and lacki ng the inflationary consumer demand of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc is often a very good value. Sauvignon Blanc is usually quite distinctive and one of the easier varietal wines to recognise by its often sharp, aggressive smell. The most common (but not exclusive) smell and/or flavour elements found in sauvignon blanc-based wines include: Sauvignon Blanc Smell and/or Flavour Elements -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- With naturally high acidity, Sauvignon Blanc is always tangy, tart, nervy, racy, or zesty, and this character pervades even sweet and dessert versions, keeping them from being cloying and sticky-tasting. Dry-style Sauvignon or Fumé Blanc's are very versatile in accompanying foods and can handle components such as tomatoes, bell peppers, cilantro, raw garlic, smoked cheeses or other pungent flavours that would clash with or overpower many Chardonnay's and almost all other dry whites. In fact, Sauvignon Blanc is probably the best dry white wine to accompany the greatest variety of foods. Semillon Semillon grapes make up 80% of the blend in the most expensive and famous dessert wine in the world, Château d'Yquem. Semillon seems the favourite foil of Botrytis Cinerea, the noble rot which concentrates the sugars and flavours and intensifies the aromas for d'Yquem and the other "late-harvest" dessert wines of Monbazillac and Sauternes. These wines hold up spectacularly in antiquity, unique in the spectrum of unfortified wines. Consistently productive at six to eight tons per acre and of vigorous vines, Semillon is easy to cultivate. It is fairly resistant to common vine diseases, with the notable exception of rot, which mos t often is hoped to be the noble type and not the destructive strain. This viticultural profile has led to widespread propagation and popularity of Semillon vineyards. While Semillon is the majority white variety in Bordeaux, Graves, and Sauternes, more grows in Chile than anywhere else on earth. Early in the viticultural development of Australia, Semillon (often incorrectly labeled as Riesling) dominated as the major white variety, although the vineyards are mostly Chardonnay and sauvignon blanc today. California has an ongoing chequered relationship with Semillon. Acreage has fluctuated up and down over the past several decades, from 1,200 acres in 1961, to 2,800 acres in 1981, to currently over 1,500 acres planted. Most California Semillon today is blended with Sauvignon Blanc and rendered dry, but an experimental dessert wine created a sensation in the middle of the 20th Century. In 1956, winemaker Myron Nightingale, then of Cresta Blanca winery, made a dessert wine by spraying spores of Botrytis cinerea on Semillon and sauvignon blanc grapes to produce French Sauternes-like results. The wine was a breakthrough success in the industry, because the California climate had always been considered too arid for the Noble Mould to naturally exist at a high enough population level to any beneficial effect. Financial problems caused Cresta Blanca to change hands and production ceased after the 1966 vintage. The ripe Semillon berry is a rich yellow colour at maturity, although increasing sun exposure may turn it amber-pink. In warmer climates, there is always danger of sunburn and raisining. If processed as a dry or semidry table wine, the thin skins and tender, juicy pulp require speedy but gentle handling. Semillon Smell and/or Flavour Elements Chardonnay
Of the four varieties of the Muscat, each produces, wines with the distinct, intense, aromatic, sweet, and easily recognised scent of Muscat and, unusual for most wine varieties, that actually taste like grapes. Muscat of Alexandria and Muscat Hamburg are, in fact, cultivated as table grapes, as well as for making wine. Muscat is a very ancient variety and, with its strong and distinctive perfume, was probably one of the first to be identified and cultivated. Nearly every Mediterranean country has a famous wine based on Muscat and varying from light and bone dry, to low-alcohol sparkling versions, to very sweet and alcoholic potions. The Muscat vine is not very vigorous in most soil types, especially sandy mixtures, and seems to prefer damp, deep soils. It also falls victim quite easily to any of several vine diseases. Normally early in budding, Muscat may also suffer from Spring frosts; Muscat Ottonel is particularly susceptible to shatter or coulure. All things considered, Muscat would not seem to be a grape that would be cultivated so widely as it is. The full name is Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains and the berries are quite small and round, but not always white. The spectrum includes pale green, pale yellow, golden, pink, red, brown, and black berries. Some vines produce fruit that can be different coloured each vintage. Muscat Smell and/or Flavour Elements California had barely 100 acres of Muscat blanc in 1961, over 400 by 1971. Since 1981, Muscat blanc acreage has been fairly steady at 1,100 to 1,300 acres. Muscat orange, which has a distinct orange blossom aroma is grown on 135 acres. Muscat of Alexandria, which has much less distinctive aroma and flavour than the other Muscat varieties, but thrives in warm growing areas, is planted to over 5,000 acres of California vineyard. It sets a very large crop of fruit that can get very sweet, but the flavour is merely grapes.
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Merlot
Cabernet
Sauvignon 
Cabernet
Franc
Pinot
Noir
Sauvignon
Blanc
Chardonnay grapes are among the very finest of all white wine
grapes. The grapes have an appealing balance of fruit, acidity
and texture. Some tasters associate Chardonn
ay with apples, ripe
figs, and melons, while others focus on the wine's creamy or buttery
texture. Winemakers play a particularly important role in the
style of a Chardonnay wine, which can range from clean, crisp
bottling's, with a hint of varietal fruit, to rich, complex, oak-aged
examples that need several years of bottle aging to fully display
their character. Chardonnay grapes are also used to produce fine
sparkling wines.